Japanese getaway: Hakone
After few crazy days in Tokyo we decided to spend some time discovering Japanese countryside. After quick research on what would be the most convenient stop on our way from Tokyo to Kyoto, we set our minds on Hakone: a mountain area in Japan's Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park known for its spectacular views of Mount Fuji and numerous hot springs resorts. You can find a map with all our stops here.
The area is about 1,5 hour south from Tokyo and includes numerous little villages and spectacular views you can tour by purchasing a Hakone Loop ticket. We purchased our trip starting from Tokyo's Shinjuku station, however if you have a valid Japan Rail Pass you can buy a cheaper ticket starting from the first station of Hakone, Odawara.
As we reached the starting point of the loop rather late, we only had a quick lunch in a little park of Gora before heading to the ropeway over Owakudani Valley's boiling sulphur springs and Lake Ashi. We were particularly unlucky and were not able to spot the view of Mount Fuji because of the cloudy sky but if you do have some time, it is well worth taking a walk along the lake as the views are spectacular anyways even with the gloomy weather. We finished our first day with a quick stop on the grass fields of Sengoku-kogen and headed to the hotel.
On our second day, we woke up early in the morning and after an amazing Japanese breakfast we headed back to the Togendai station to take a ferry to the other side of the lake. It's a quick 30-minute trip to Motohakone station and another 10 to Hakone-machi where the famous torii gate of Hakone Shrine is located. If you do have some time left like we did, you can consider an easy hike on the Kyukaido - ancient highway. Apparently, it goes all the way to Hakone-Yumoto but the first part going to Amaze Chaya tea house is the nicest one (the rest goes along the new and quite busy road and is not that pleasant anymore). There you can hop on the bus to finish the loop.
From our experience, the loop should be completely doable in one day - try to arrive to the area earlier in the morning (we reached Hakone-Yumoto only around 13:00) and you will definitely have time to see everything. If you're planning to try one of the local ryokans though, we had an amazing experience in Mount View Hakone about which you can read a bit more at the bottom of this post.
And if you want to read a bit more about our Japanese experience and see our full itinerary, you should check this post.
As we decided to spend a night in the Hakone area, we chose one of the local ryokans (a type of traditional Japanese inn) located not far from Togendai stop by Lake Ashi (3/4 of our loop). Mount View Hakone was definitely not a budget option (however not a luxury one either) but the experience was so worth it!
We were welcomed by a wonderful staff and showed to our Japanese style room with no beds but futon mats being installed for the night and tea table right in the middle. We were presented with a set of yukata (casual summer kimono) and as we booked both a private onsen (Japanese hot spring) and a dinner, we were asked to wear them for both.
Dinner costs around 8,000¥ for a couple and is definitely amazing. We were served with countless little Japanese dishes including sushi, sashimi, tempura, udon noodles and a little soup simmering in the middle of the table. Yum!
